Dress and Society
Contributions from Archaeology
Illustrating the range of current archaeological approaches to dress, and taking ‘dress’ to mean all forms of body ornamentation, this collection of seven essays discusses British Middle Bronze Age ornament hoards, Iron Age brooches, the Roman military belt as status symbol and object of fashion, Anglo-Saxon dress accessories, and gifts of apparel in north-east England during the 16th century.
A Revolution of Feeling
The Decade that Forged the Modern Mind
In the 1790s Britain experienced what Edmund Burke called ‘a revolution in sentiments’: Hewitt shows how the French Revolution inspired British radicals to incorporate raw emotion into reformist ideals concerning sex, education, commerce and medicine. However, while this had enduring political effects, the aspirations of Enlightenment figures including Samuel Coleridge, William Godwin, Mary Wollstonecraft and Thomas Wedgwood went unfulfilled as the ensuing Terror led to political crackdowns in Britain.
Can Democracy Work?
A Short History of a Radical Idea from Ancient Athens to Our World
From ancient Greeks to Donald Trump, people have argued about what democracy means. This concise history surveys its many incarnations, as expressed in the French and American revolutions and 19th-century radicalism, and assesses the challenges it faces today.
The Secret History of the Handbag
The status bag existed long before Louis Vuitton put his initials on his Speedy 25. This illustrated history starts with medieval pouches embellished with gold and silver thread and semi-precious stones, and traces changing fashions up to the modern celebrity bag, with chapters on luggage, evening bags, jewel-encrusted and art bags, and current trends re-inventing handbags as ‘private objects of desire, their secret charms known only to those who carry them close’.
The Dandy at Dusk
Taste and Melancholy in the Twentieth Century
Dandyism is often thought to be about extravagance of dress. Combining biography, social history and men’s fashion, this study reveals it to be something different: an austere, almost religious dedication to style. Through profiles of six 20th-century dandies – the Duke of Windsor, the architect Adolf Loos, Bunny Roger, Quentin Crisp, Jean-Philippe Melville and the film director Rainer Werner Fassbinder – it probes issues of identity, nostalgia and the self-created persona.
In Our Time
Celebrating Twenty Years of Essential Conversation
Between 1998 and 2018, Melvyn Bragg and his co-presenters hosted 815 editions of In Our Time, BBC Radio 4's Thursday morning live discussion, with academics talking on topics in history, science, philosophy, culture and religion. Chosen from the accumulated riches of 20 years, this is an illustrated selection of 50 of the most interesting conversations about subjects as diverse as the 18th-century gin craze, photosynthesis, Confucius, Turner’s The Fighting Temeraire, and the story of Tristan and Iseult.
The Fashion Chronicles
The Style Stories of History's Best Dressed
In this illustrated collection of biographies, the fashion historian and BBC television presenter Amber Butchart investigates the lives and sartorial style of 100 figures across five thousand years of history, from Otzi the Iceman who lived c.3500–3100 BCE to the Vogue model Halima Aden, who was born in 1997. She explores how, across cultures and throughout time, people have used clothing to signify power and status, to adorn and beautify, even to prop up or dismantle regimes.
A Book of English Cheeses
Following a letter in The Times in 1937 about the difficulty of sourcing Stilton, Sir John Squire asked ten writers to raise awareness of local cheeses by recording the provenance and mythology relating to their favourite. Their entertaining and often humorous anecdotes, reprinted here with illustrations by EH Shepard, reveal an artisanal world as much under threat from mass production then as it is today.
A Visual Atlas from Ancient Greece to Artificial Intelligence
Examples of automata copying human actions date back to the ancient world and the idea of artificial or mechanical humans has had a particularly notable influence on art and the popular imagination since the early 20th century. This celebration of robots in visual culture explores their use in film, music, art, fashion and commerce, from the paintings of Fernand Léger and movies such as The Forbidden Planet to Kraftwerk and Transformers toys.
Style and Perfume from Chanel to Madonna
Illustrated with vintage advertisements and photographs, this examination of olfactory trends from the 1920s to the 1980s considers the key historical events and iconic female figures of each decade in turn and goes on to analyse in detail the scents most associated with it, such as Joy in the 1930s and Opium in the 1970s.
Dress Like a Woman
Working Women and What They Wore
Although women started to enter employment en masse in the early 20th century, it was not until the 1970s that they began to exercise a modicum of autonomy over what they wore at work. Accompanied by introductory essays by fashion journalist Vanessa Friedman and New York Times. bestselling author Roxane Gay, the 240 photographs in this volume depict the changes in women’s clothing in the workplace over the last hundred years.
The Café de Move-on Blues
In Search of the New South Africa
A quarter of a century after the end of apartheid, Christopher Hope embarks on a road trip through his homeland from Cape Town to the Zimbabwean border, meeting exploited black miners and embittered white nationalists. In the face of persisting economic inequality and interracial bitterness, he concludes that Nelson Mandela’s dream of a ‘rainbow nation’ is fading, and it might be the turn of the whites to hear what anti-apartheid politician Oliver Tambo called ‘the Move-on Blues’.
Fans in Spain
This illustrated guide to Spanish fans offers a comprehensive overview of their origin, development and use, from the gem-encrusted status symbols of the wealthy to the mass-produced, disposable paper trifles used to advertise goods and services. The various religious and cultural influences that inspired their design are considered, along with the range of materials used to construct them and the artists who decorated them.
Edwardian Ladies' Hat Fashions
'Where Did You Get That Hat?'
Based on the historian Peter Kimpton’s collection of fashion postcards from Edwardian times, this well-illustrated guide documents the hat (and hatpin) fashions that defined that era and the designers – including Coco Chanel – who created them. The author also explores the darker side of the millinery industry, from the wholesale slaughter of exotic birds for their ornate feathers to the appalling conditions in the hat-making sweatshops of New York.
How to Dine in Style
The Art of Entertaining, 1920
First published in 1920, this manual reveals a golden age of elegant dining. Advice on table settings and decorations, etiquette, food and wine is complemented by menus for breakfasts, al-fresco luncheons, wedding receptions and garden parties. A chapter on ‘freak dinners given by wealthy people’ offers a glimpse into the decadent world of the Jazz Era.
An Illustrated History
Due to the expensive materials and craftsmanship required, shoes have often been regarded as status symbols; the desire of owners to display their wealth resulting in extreme designs such as the absurdly elongated toes of 14th-century 'poulaines'. This well-illustrated history of shoe design analyses the many fads of the 20th century and the latest models of contemporary designers as well as investigating footwear styles dating back as far as 3500 BCE – the oldest shoe ever found.
Medieval Dress and Textiles in Britain
A Multilingual Sourcebook
Dress in the Middle Ages was an identifier of status, wealth, occupation, gender and ethnicity, and fashions in dress caused controversy and complaint: ‘Do not fashion your clothing in a new-fangled way’, wrote Robert Brunne in Handlyng Synne (1303). This volume of manuscript sources, transcribed and translated from Old and Middle English, Latin and Anglo-Norman French, illuminates these subjects through readings from wills, accounts, inventories, moral and satirical works, sumptuary regulations and epics and romances.
A Drink for the Devil
After petroleum, coffee is the most traded commodity in the world, with over 7 million tonnes produced annually. By 2015, when this book was written, Britain had more than 20,000 coffee shops, and the sector was still growing. This book records the history of what a pope called ‘the Devil’s drink’, the rise of the coffee house in 18th-century Europe and the global industry today.
Born in the Welsh valleys, Joan Ruddock went on to lead the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament before becoming an MP and the first Minister for Women in the Blair government. In this memoir, she recalls the hard lives of her parents, which fuelled her passion for social justice, her career as campaigner and politician, the euphoria she felt after the 1997 election, and the frustration and disillusionment that followed.
Commander in Chief
FDR's Battle with Churchill, 1943
Hamilton’s reappraisal of Roosevelt’s wartime leadership continues with this second volume in his trilogy, assessing the clashes between FDR and Churchill throughout 1943. As battle escalated in North Africa and Italy, a strategic difference between the two men emerged, with the president challenging Churchill’s decision to widen the war in the Mediterranean and overruling his attempts to abandon the D-Day landings.
Fashion Illustration in Britain
Society & the Seasons
This well-illustrated book follows the history of fashion and the social calendar in Britain from the late 18th century to the outbreak of the Second World War, when intricately drawn fashion plates were gradually abandoned in favour of photography. Material is taken from the pages of fashion magazines, showing readers how to dress appropriately and stylishly at any time of year and for any occasion, ranging from weddings and funerals to the making of morning calls and sporting activities.
The Complete Sourcebook
This comprehensive and detailed sourcebook comprises over 2,000 specially commissioned illustrations, many in colour, charting the history of the shoe from the Egyptian sandals of 2500 BCE to the baseball boots of the 21st century. Each example is carefully described, including details of materials, decorations and fastenings. The reference section provides short biographies of leading designers and companies, and a visual timeline shows the development of footwear through the centuries.
The World Corrupted: From Slavery to Obesity
How did a commodity that was once the prized monopoly of kings become an essential ingredient of everyday life and then the cause of a global health epidemic? James Walvin traces the history of how the demand for sweetness has been met, from early Mediterranean sugar plantations, to the immense human and environmental cost of the Caribbean plantations and the slave system, the industries that followed, and the dawning awareness of the obesity problem.
Eve and the New Jerusalem
Socialism and Feminism in the Nineteenth Century
First published in 1983, this landmark history shed new light on the struggle for social justice and drew attention to the achievements of many forgotten women activists. Reissued with a new introduction, it remains as relevant as ever today.
Doris Kloster's Demimonde
A Visual Exploration of Fetish
Doris Kloster, the photographer and editorial director of FAD magazine, presents an album of 160 photographs celebrating the world of night people, drag goddesses, dominatrixes and divas that inhabited New York’s club scene in the 1980s and 1990s. Sexually explicit.
The Art of Dining
A History of Cooking & Eating
From the cavernous kitchens of medieval manors to the relatively sophisticated technology of Victorian houses, this volume draws on the records of National Trust properties to show how cooking and dining habits evolved through the centuries. The book is illustrated with reproductions of paintings from each period and photographs of surviving kitchens, and each chapter includes practical modern adaptations of historical recipes.
The Fashion of Film
How Cinema Has Inspired Fashion
With examples from 45 films across seven genres, including crime, musicals, horror and fantasy, this illustrated volume explores Hollywood’s influence on fashion. Demonstrating how costumes can prompt designers’ creativity decades after appearing on screen, it includes looks that have become mainstream – Marlene Dietrich’s androgynous appearance in Morocco in 1930 has been mimicked repeatedly – and those that remain outlandish, such as the robotic bodysuits in Thierry Mugler’s 1995–96 collection, inspired by the 1927 classic Metropolis.
Sex, Sense and Nonsense
Felicity Green on the '60s Fashion Scene
Felicity Green was fashion editor of the Daily Mirror throughout the 1960s and, as well as blazing a trail for women in journalism, revolutionized newspaper coverage of fashion through the introduction of celebrity and glamour. Reproducing some of the best pages from the newspaper, featuring leading models, designers and celebrities of the day, she reflects on the rapidly changing scene of the 1960s, when sexy and playful fashions scandalized, entertained and excited the nation.
The Shape We're In
How Junk Food and Diets Are Shortening Our Lives
Award-winning Guardian health editor Sarah Boseley suggests that we are largely unaware of the obesity epidemic happening around us, and that we should take issue with food and drink manufacturers, fast-food chains, our attitude to obesity and the diet industry itself. Boseley presents some frightening facts and statistics, but also proposes solutions; they involve the whole community, and a huge change in attitude.
Penguins, Pineapples and Pangolins
First Encounters with the Exotic
Nowadays, with the world’s knowledge at our fingertips, it is hard to recapture the sense of wonder felt by explorers when they first encountered animals and plants, people and customs, stranger than anything they could imagine. Generously illustrated with contemporary prints and woodcuts, this captivating book draws on accounts from Roman times to the 19th century to convey the amazement felt by Europeans when they first saw giraffes and bananas, Mongolian yurts and the statues of Easter Island.
Peacock or Enigma?
Philosopher or poseur, aristocrat or democrat, austere classicist or flamboyant eccentric? More than 200 years after Beau Brummell dazzled London with his elegance, the dandy remains an enigma. This entertaining, richly anecdotal history charts the evolution of dandyism from London to Paris, St Petersburg to Hollywood. Along the way, we meet a long line of men – Byron, Disraeli, Oscar Wilde, F Scott Fitzgerald, and Noël Coward among them – who dedicated their lives to making a stand against drab conformity.
Jazz, Race, the Beats, and Drugs
Marijuana was part of the scene for the early jazzmen of New Orleans, and the arrival of heroin in Harlem in the 1940s hooked the bebop players and helped create the culture that influenced writers such as Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg. This social history examines the connection between drug use and the evolution of jazz music and discusses its influence in shaping American culture in the 20th century. Slightly off-mint with a felt-tip mark on upper trimmed edge.
Harper's Bazaar Models
In her foreword, Harper’s editor-in-chief, Glenda Bailey, writes, ‘You can become a good model with a perfect body, but to become a great model you need a unique face’. With over 200 photographs by some of the greatest fashion photographers, this volume presents the stories of 28 women whose faces, poise and ability to switch personas made them the most sought-after models of the last 60 years, from Dovima and Suzy Parker in the 1950s to Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss in the 2010s.
The First Book of Foundations
The first volume of philosopher Michel Serres’ Foundations Trilogy comprises a ‘continuous and free reading’ of the Roman historian Livy’s account of the origins of Rome. As Serres identifies the ancient author’s key themes – violence, murder, sacrifice, hospitality – he considers what the foundation of Rome reveals about the beginnings of society, knowledge and culture. Originally published in French in 1983, the book now appears in a new English translation by Randolph Burks.
The Story of Costume
Fashion changed slowly in the centuries before the modern era and resulted in some odd and impractical styles, such as the long, pointed men’s shoes of the 15th century or the 19th century’s bustles and crinolines. This children’s history of costume tells the story of fashion from the ancient Egyptians and Greeks to the modern era through a series of 325 colour illustrations. Age 8+
Understanding Fashion History
As fashion history is now taught, a divide has developed between collections of dress in museums and academics who approach fashion via theories about the body, feminism, gender and postmodernism. A classic text in its field, this book re-examines the evolution of fashion and how it has been defined and studied since the late 17th century, and looks in detail at the assembling and use of collections of fashion and textiles.
Berg Encylopedia of World Dress and Fashion
Volume Three: The United States and Canada
Written for both academic and general readers, the volumes of the Berg Encyclopedia focus on the 19th to early 21st centuries and comprise essays on the full spectrum of issues relating to dress and body modification, with topics ranging from antebellum African American dress to military and civil uniforms. This volume contains more than 70 essays covering First Nations peoples, and European and other cultural groups in the USA and Canada.
Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
Volume Seven: Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific Islands
Written for both academic and general readers, the volumes of the Berg Encyclopedia focus on the 19th to early 21st centuries and comprise essays on the full spectrum of issues relating to dress and body modification, with topics ranging from Maori moko to 'swimwear, surfwear and the bronzed body' in Australia. The 75 essays in this volume cover both First Nation and European dress in Australia and New Zealand, and Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia.
A History of Aristocratic Fashion Icons
Among the royals of Europe there have always been fashionistas: long before Christian Louboutin, Louis XIV created a trend with red-soled shoes, Queen Victoria started the fashion for white wedding dresses, and the elegant style of Grace Kelly has been copied the world over. With over 200 photographs of aristocratic fashion leaders, Royal Style celebrates regal fashion, from the Middle Ages to the newest icons such as the couture-loving Kate Middleton and Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece.
Classic Hollywood Style
Iconic costumes from the golden era of Hollywood are indelibly associated with particular stars and films. With over 150 photographs, and featuring screen stars such as Greta Garbo and Marilyn Monroe, this book explores how cinema's most glamorous costumes were created and how you can get the look today. Focusing on 34 classic films, including Casablanca, Breakfast at Tiffany's and Bonnie and Clyde, the book also tells the stories of the designers, some of whom became stars themselves.
An Essay on the History of Civil Society (1767)
Published in 1767 while Ferguson was Professor of Moral Philosophy at Edinburgh, the Essay is his masterpiece, its historical and political content much admired by contemporaries in Scotland, London and Europe. It offered a view of human progress and civic society that encouraged both commercial success and the political engagement of every citizen, and favoured classical republicanism over monarchy. Facsimile reprint. No jacket.
Enlightenment and Reform in Eighteenth-Century Europe
This volume brings together Beales's essays, articles and lectures on 18th century Europe and, in particular, his research on Joseph II, Holy Roman Emperor 1765-1790 and ruler of the Austrian Monarchy 1780-1790, and his 'revolution from above'. The book covers an area as wide as Joseph's rule and reforming influence, from the Austrian Netherlands in the West to Galicia and Transylvania in the East, and explores his ideas, aims and achievements through topics ranging from enlightened despotism to Mozart, and from the suppression of the Jesuits to Maria Theresa.
An Anthropology of Britain
What does it mean to live in Britain and to be ‘British’, and is an anthropology of Britain even a legitimate undertaking? Ranging across subjects as diverse as achieving collective identity on the Isle of Man, the London dance scene, leisure and change in a post-mining mining town, and Armenian and other diasporas, this volume of 15 essays establishes that an anthropology of Britain can set excellent standards of subtle ethnography and complex analysis.
Abbo of Fleury and Ramsey
Commentary on the Calculus of Victorius of Aquitaine
This didactic work by Abbo of Fleury (c.945–1004) is a philosophical Commentary on the mathematical tables produced by Victorius of Aquitaine (fl.457) to facilitate calculations using Roman numerals and fractions. Latin texts of both Victorius and Abbo. No jacket.