The Mystery of Style
Published to accompany the 2010 exhibition of the same name at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence, this volume investigates Greta Garbo’s life in fashion. Although almost everything she wore was custom-made, her sartorial style was not that of a conventional film star and her wardrobe consisted of comfortable, practical clothes and footwear, many previously unpublished photographs of which feature here. Also included are full-page studio portraits and paparazzi shots plus essays and anecdotes about her life on and off-screen.
Lifting the Lid on Women's Lives
This social history examines the lives of late 19th- and early 20th-century women at home and at work through the changing appearance of the buttons that decorated and fastened their clothes. Lynn Knight explores the role of these accessories as emblems of security, identity and independence and explains how each example represents an era or a vanished way of life, from Victorian mourning attire to Biba’s large statement buttons of the 1970s.
An Illustrated History
Due to the expensive materials and craftsmanship required, shoes have often been regarded as status symbols; the desire of owners to display their wealth resulting in extreme designs such as the absurdly elongated toes of 14th-century 'poulaines'. This well-illustrated history of shoe design analyses the many fads of the 20th century and the latest models of contemporary designers as well as investigating footwear styles dating back as far as 3500 BCE – the oldest shoe ever found.
Fashion in Pictures
Pop stars and actors as well as models and society figures feature in this pictorial survey of fashion since 1900 through photographs taken for the Daily Mirror newspaper. From reportage images of Royal Ascot to studio fashion shots and tabloid-style photographs, the images reflect the changing times as well as changing attire.
A Portrait of Fashion
Six Centuries of Dress at the National Portrait Gallery
Discussing portraits of around 190 people, ranging chronologically from Henry VII to Grayson Perry and Elizabeth II, this study uses the superb collection of the National Portrait Gallery to explore the role of clothing and accessories in portraiture. With an illustrated introductory chapter and detailed commentary on 95 individuals, pairs or groups, the book looks at how clothing and fabrics are used to delineate identity and character, and how the choice of apparel gives insight into a sitter’s personality.
Fashion Illustration in Britain
Society & the Seasons
This well-illustrated book follows the history of fashion and the social calendar in Britain from the late 18th century to the outbreak of the Second World War, when intricately drawn fashion plates were gradually abandoned in favour of photography. Material is taken from the pages of fashion magazines, showing readers how to dress appropriately and stylishly at any time of year and for any occasion, ranging from weddings and funerals to sporting activities, and the making of morning calls.
Vogue: The Shoe
Award-winning journalist Harriet Quick describes shoes as objects of ‘fascination, status and desire’ in this lavish volume, presented in an embossed box with a ribbon bookmark. Over 300 images by British Vogue photographers spanning from 1920 to 2015 are organized into five themed chapters including ‘Cinderella’, with bejewelled pumps by Manolo Blahnik, and ‘Fetish & Fantasia’, featuring Jean-Paul Gaultier’s corset-laced, thigh-length boots.
50 Shoes that Changed the World
The Design Museum
From the production of the world’s first plimsoll (1830s) to the Melissa shoe – designed by architect Zaha Hadid (2008) – via winkle-pickers, desert boots, flip-flops, crocs, heelless boots, ballet pumps with heels and the Electric Light Shoe (which is actually a sculpture), here are 50 shoe designs that have made an impact. Each entry in the guide is photographed and described in the context of its significance on the shoe-design timeline.
A History of Lingerie
From red stockings and satin bustiers to leopard-print thongs, undergarments are often more interesting than the clothes that cover them. With a short introduction, this volume uses colour photographs and contemporary advertisements to illustrate a fascinating range of lingerie. From 19th-century corsets to an early bust supporter and a 1920s bra that offers no support at all, each item is described and catalogued, charting the changing shape of 20th-century fashion.
The Fashion of Film
How Cinema Has Inspired Fashion
Elsa Schiaparelli famously said, ‘What Hollywood designs today, you will be wearing tomorrow,’ and it’s been true since film and fashion were first united at a party in 1911. Richly illustrated with photographs from both worlds, this guide divides 45 movies into seven genres: from crime – featuring film noir and Lauren Bacall; to musicals – including Top Hat and West Side Story; and art house – from directors such as Jean Luc-Godard and Wim Wenders.
Bikinis, Bell-Bottoms and Little Black Dresses
70 Great Fashion Classics
Flip-flops originated in ancient Egypt, sailors wore bell-bottom trousers – a wide leg could be rolled up while swabbing the decks – and the first people to don a parka-style coat were the Canadian Inuit. Taking 70 icons of style – from berets and bikinis to desert boots – this guide charts the history of each item, with photographs revealing how trends have been inspired by work-wear, film, history and the military.
Corsets & Codpieces
A Social History of Outrageous Fashion
With tales both tragic (the 2,500 deaths from crinoline fires in 1864) and amusing (the horse that ate the stuffing from a race-goer’s bustle), Bowman takes readers on a lively journey from Roman times to 1940s Britain, examining some of the more unusual trends that have been deemed fashionable at one time or another. From the style that was invented to mask disease, to a 1920s hairdo that ended relationships, there’s more to fashion that first meets the eye.
Sex, Sense and Nonsense
Felicity Green on the '60s Fashion Scene
Felicity Green was fashion editor of the Daily Mirror throughout the 1960s and, as well as blazing a trail for women in journalism, revolutionized newspaper coverage of fashion through the introduction of celebrity and glamour. Reproducing some of the best pages from the newspaper, featuring leading models, designers and celebrities of the day, she reflects on the rapidly changing scene of the 1960s, when sexy and playful fashions scandalized, entertained and excited the nation.
Dress of the Year
The Fashion Museum, Bath, takes donation of one new outfit from a contemporary designer each year. The pieces are chosen by fashion writers and intended to reflect the mood of the time – they are often prophetic of future trends. Beginning in 1963 with a Mary Quant dress, and finishing in 2012 with an appliqué evening dress by Christian Dior, this publication includes a photograph and description for each garment in the collection. Incorrectly placed text on page 126 corrected with erratum slip.
Dysfunctional Fashion in Film
Marlene Dietrich’s blood-stained Dior dress in Stage Fright, the white-suited assassin of The Untouchables, Cary Grant’s ‘armour-plated suit’ in North by Northwest... This extensively illustrated volume examines ‘clothing-related moments’ in a vast range of films. Discussing clothes and accessories including overcoats, trench coats and furs, jewellery, shoes, gloves and scarves, white suits (‘the tailoring of evil’) and women in red, the fashion theorist Jonathan Faiers explores the visual and psychical resonance of movie actors’ costume.
The Fashion of Subcultures
Social changes in the early 20th century increasingly encouraged young people to develop tastes that were different from those of their parents, and to spend money on indulging their interests. Usually aligning themselves with new movements in popular music, style tribes emerged with idiosyncratic attitudes and modes of dress. This survey of youth culture identifies over 30 styles from the flappers of the 1920s and the swing kids of the 1930s, to beatniks, hippies, goths and hipsters.
The Mechanical Smile
Modernism and the First Fashion Shows in France and America 1900–1929
In a richly illustrated study of the early fashion shows in France and America between the 1880s and 1929, Caroline Evans brings ‘economic and design history together in a new formation’ as she explores topics including fashion and modernism; the innovations of designers such as Worth, Lucile and Poiret; the body and the fashion mannequins (as models were known); the international garment and fashion trade; and commercial and cultural relations between America and France.