Wearing the Trousers
Fashion, Freedom, and the Rise of the Modern Woman
Drawing on a range of primary sources, including newspaper reports, letters, journals and memoirs, Don Chapman presents a chronological history of female trousered dress in Britain – from the birth of ‘bloomerism’ in 1851 to the advent of the First World War when land girls began to wear clothing appropriate to the job at hand.
The Story of Underwear
The first of these two highly illustrated, slip-cased volumes traces the history of men's underwear, from the purely functional garments of ancient times up to the eclectic range of styles available today. The second offers an analysis of the relationship between societal conventions and the evolution of intimate female attire, looking at how the lingerie industry has been shaped over time by influences such as emancipation.
Chaos to Couture
Published to accompany an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this collection of photographs and essays reflects on the impact of punk on the world of haute couture. The portfolio connects images of the Sex Pistols, and other wearers of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm Maclaren's clothes in the late 1970s, with related catwalk designs by John Galliano, Alexander Wang, Karl Lagerfeld and others.
The Rag Trade
The People Who Made Our Clothes
Through the biographies of eleven individual clothing workers across the UK, this book presents a revealing picture of 19th-century working life. Its subjects were tailors, dressmakers, milliners and shoemakers, and for many of them, difficult clients, financial problems and trouble with the law made for a precarious existence in which success or failure depended on luck as much as judgement.
‘The undisputed king of catwalk photography’, Chris Moore has spent over 50 years working on fashion shoots around the world. This collection of hundreds of his images reflects changes in the fashion industry as well as clothing, from posed models in couture Chanel outfits on the streets of Paris in the 1960s to the supermodels of the 1990s and the theatricality of modern catwalk shows by designers including Balenciaga, Gucci and Louis Vitton.
From Chanel's iconic Little Black Dress to Kylie Minogue's gold hot pants, fashion history is full of influential turning points. This volume, illustrated with watercolour art, looks at the cultural impact of 100 such 'moments', detailing key facts about each garment and its designer and explaining why it was ground-breaking. Slightly off-mint.
Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed the 1970s
Paula Reed presents an illustrated guide to fifty of the most definitive sartorial moments of the 1970s – from Bianca Jagger in Halston, Diane von Furstenberg's first wrap dress and David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust to the rise of punk and Biba – offering an analysis of each look in the context of the decade's influence on recent high street and catwalk fashion.
Fashion in the '70s
From hippy flares to punk drainpipes and sequinned disco hot pants to flowing organza evening gowns, womenswear in the 1970s was an eclectic affair. Featuring more than 450 original photographs and illustrations, this volume presents an overview of the decade's styles, plus a directory of influential designers and fashion houses.
Walk this Way
Footwear from the Stuart Weitzman Collection of Historic Shoes
Known for his use of unique materials and his creation of bespoke shoes for Oscar nominees, the American designer Stuart Weitzman has, over the years, acquired an impressive assortment of antique footwear. Illustrated with photographs from this collection, the costume and textile historian Edward Maeder explores the impact of twentieth-century design and culture on the evolution of women's shoes from 1870-1980.
Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album
The fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli flouted 1930s style conventions with her idiosyncratic designs, becoming well-known for her collaborations with Surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí. With biographical text by her granddaughter Marisa Berenson, this collection of images from her personal archive includes likenesses by Picasso and Drian, photographs of her at work and leisure, pictures of her couture shows, contemporaneous magazine extracts and facsimile pages from her note- and sketchbooks.
The Dandy at Dusk
Taste and Melancholy in the Twentieth Century
Dispelling the notion that dandyism can be defined as an extravagance of dress, and seeing it more as an art form, this social history explores its relationship to modernity and issues of identity. Through profiles of six 20th-century dandies, including the Duke of Windsor, Quentin Crisp and the film director Rainer Werner Fassbinder, Philip Mann shows how their dedication to style is linked intrinsically to their aesthetic values and attitudes.
Shoes for Stars
From a stall on London's Waterloo Road, H&M Rayne evolved over the course of a century into a world-famous luxury shoe brand known for its collaboration with designers including Mary Quant and Bruce Oldfield. Sumptuously illustrated with photographs and contemporaneous print advertisements, this volume charts the company's history and its famous clientele, and explores the influence of the social and artistic milestones of the 20th century on footwear design.
Fashion by Chance 1960–1974
A Visual Autobiography
During the 1960s and 1970s the fashion designer Cleonice Capece played a pivotal role in the success of the 'Made in Italy' mark, creating collections that were sold all over the world in iconic stores including Harrods and Saks New York. This account of her life in the industry is illustrated with fashion shoot photographs, press clippings, sketches, and previously unpublished ephemera from her personal archive.
‘Elegant, outrageous, urbane, eccentric ... provocateurs to aesthetes’: from Thierry Hermés (1801–1878) to Gareth Pugh (b.1981), this volume profiles 75 designers who have made their mark on fashion, with photographic portraits, brief accounts of their collections or couture houses, and pictures of the clothes on the catwalks or in photo shoots.
The Fashion Chronicles
The Style Stories of History's Best Dressed
In this illustrated collection of biographies, the fashion historian and BBC television presenter Amber Butchart investigates the lives and sartorial style of 100 figures across five thousand years of history, from Otzi the Iceman who lived c.3500–3100 BCE to the Vogue model Halima Aden, who was born in 1997. She explores how, across cultures and throughout time, people have used clothing to signify power and status, to adorn and beautify, even to prop up or dismantle regimes.
Style and Perfume from Chanel to Madonna
Illustrated with vintage advertisements and photographs, this examination of olfactory trends from the 1920s to the 1980s considers the key historical events and iconic female figures of each decade in turn and goes on to analyse in detail the scents most associated with it, such as Joy in the 1930s and Opium in the 1970s.
The Mystery of Style
Published to accompany the 2010 exhibition of the same name at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence, this volume investigates Greta Garbo’s life in fashion. Although almost everything she wore was custom-made, her sartorial style was not that of a conventional film star and her wardrobe consisted of comfortable, practical clothes and footwear, many previously unpublished photographs of which feature here. Also included are full-page studio portraits and paparazzi shots plus essays and anecdotes about her life on and off-screen.
An Illustrated History
Due to the expensive materials and craftsmanship required, shoes have often been regarded as status symbols; the desire of owners to display their wealth resulting in extreme designs such as the absurdly elongated toes of 14th-century 'poulaines'. This well-illustrated history of shoe design analyses the many fads of the 20th century and the models of more recent designers as well as investigating footwear styles dating back as far as 3500 BCE – the oldest shoe ever found.
Fashion in Pictures
Pop stars and actors as well as models and society figures feature in this pictorial survey of fashion since 1900 through photographs taken for the Daily Mirror newspaper. From reportage images of Royal Ascot to studio fashion shots and tabloid-style photographs, the images reflect the changing times as well as changing attire.
Fashion Illustration in Britain
Society & the Seasons
This well-illustrated book follows the history of fashion and the social calendar in Britain from the late 18th century to the outbreak of the Second World War, when intricately drawn fashion plates were gradually abandoned in favour of photography. Material is taken from the pages of fashion magazines, showing readers how to dress appropriately and stylishly at any time of year and for any occasion, ranging from weddings and funerals to the making of morning calls and sporting activities.
A History of Lingerie
From red stockings and satin bustiers to leopard-print thongs, undergarments are often more interesting than the clothes that cover them. With a short introduction, this volume uses colour photographs and contemporary advertisements to illustrate a fascinating range of lingerie. From 19th-century corsets to an early bust supporter and a 1920s bra that offers no support at all, each item is described and catalogued, charting the changing shape of 20th-century fashion.
Bikinis, Bell-Bottoms and Little Black Dresses
70 Great Fashion Classics
lip-flops originated in ancient Egypt, sailors wore bell-bottom trousers – a wide leg could be rolled up while swabbing the decks – and the first people to don a parka-style coat were the Canadian Inuit. Taking 70 icons of style, from berets and bikinis to desert boots, this guide charts the history of each item, with photographs revealing how trends have been inspired by work-wear, film, history and the military.
Sex, Sense and Nonsense
Felicity Green on the '60s Fashion Scene
Felicity Green was fashion editor of the Daily Mirror throughout the 1960s and, as well as blazing a trail for women in journalism, revolutionized newspaper coverage of fashion through the introduction of celebrity and glamour. Reproducing some of the best pages from the newspaper, featuring leading models, designers and celebrities of the day, she reflects on the rapidly changing scene of the 1960s, when sexy and playful fashions scandalized, entertained and excited the nation.
Dress of the Year
The Fashion Museum, Bath, takes donation of one new outfit from a contemporary designer each year. The pieces are chosen by fashion writers and intended to reflect the mood of the time – they are often prophetic of future trends. Beginning in 1963 with a Mary Quant dress, and finishing in 2012 with an appliqué evening dress by Christian Dior, this publication includes a photograph and description for each garment in the collection. Incorrectly placed text on page 126 corrected with erratum slip.
Dysfunctional Fashion in Film
Marlene Dietrich’s blood-stained Dior dress in Stage Fright, the white-suited assassin of The Untouchables, Cary Grant’s ‘armour-plated suit’ in North by Northwest... This extensively illustrated volume examines ‘clothing-related moments’ in a vast range of films. Discussing clothes and accessories including overcoats, trench coats and furs, jewellery, shoes, gloves and scarves, white suits (‘the tailoring of evil’) and women in red, the fashion theorist Jonathan Faiers explores the visual and psychical resonance of movie actors’ costume.
The Fashion of Subcultures
Social changes in the early 20th century increasingly encouraged young people to develop tastes that were different from those of their parents, and to spend money on indulging their interests. Usually aligning themselves with new movements in popular music, style tribes emerged with idiosyncratic attitudes and modes of dress. This survey of youth culture identifies over 30 styles from the flappers of the 1920s and the swing kids of the 1930s, to beatniks, hippies, goths and hipsters.
The Mechanical Smile
Modernism and the First Fashion Shows in France and America 1900–1929
In a richly illustrated study of the early fashion shows in France and America between the 1880s and 1929, Caroline Evans brings ‘economic and design history together in a new formation’ as she explores topics including fashion and modernism; the innovations of designers such as Worth, Lucile and Poiret; the body and the fashion mannequins (as models were known); the international garment and fashion trade; and commercial and cultural relations between America and France.
Fashion in Impressionist Paris
The Paris of the Impressionists was the fashion capital of the world. Featuring paintings by Degas, Manet, Monet and Morisot, this book follows in the footsteps of stylish Parisians – at home, in cafés, in the park and on holiday; and it uses vintage photographs and prints to explore the worlds of dressmaking, millinery and the department store, while providing fresh insight into some of the most popular paintings of the 19th century.
Vintage Fashion Knitwear
Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics
Introduced by Kaffe Fassett, this illustrated history of knitwear surveys garments, styles, designers and manufacturers decade-by- decade, from cashmere under-vests in the early 1900s to wartime hand- knitting in the 1940s, and from 1950s twinsets by Pringle to evening dresses from the catwalks of the 2000s. The book covers all forms of knitted textile, whether hand-knits or machine produced jersey, and describes the development of the technology of knitting as well as its social and cultural context.
Great War Fashion
Tales from the History Wardrobe
From the corsets and respectable dresses of Edwardian high society to the relaxed styles that reflected the optimism of the early 1920s, this history traces the changes in women’s clothing during a period of radical social transformation. With examples from historical figures, including suffragettes, nurses and factory workers, it highlights how leisurewear and workwear became more diverse and practical, expressing the new-found freedom and confidence felt by many women after the Great War ended.
The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration
Drawing on his own archive, collected over a 60-year career in fashion design and teaching, Julian Robinson presents a survey of 400 years of fashion illustration as an art form, from Renaissance woodcuts to the Art Deco masterpieces of George Barbier. Reproducing over 300 artworks that ‘wordlessly carry within them so much information, both historical and cultural’, the book is an evocative history of fashion and the art of the fashion illustrator.