The Secret History of the Handbag
The status bag existed long before Louis Vuitton put his initials on his Speedy 25. This illustrated history starts with medieval pouches embellished with gold and silver thread and semi-precious stones, and traces changing fashions up to the modern celebrity bag, with chapters on luggage, evening bags, jewel-encrusted and art bags, and current trends re-inventing handbags as ‘private objects of desire, their secret charms known only to those who carry them close’.
The Dandy at Dusk
Taste and Melancholy in the Twentieth Century
Dandyism is often thought to be about extravagance of dress. Combining biography, social history and men’s fashion, this study reveals it to be something different: an austere, almost religious dedication to style. Through profiles of six 20th-century dandies – the Duke of Windsor, the architect Adolf Loos, Bunny Roger, Quentin Crisp, Jean-Philippe Melville and the film director Rainer Werner Fassbinder – it probes issues of identity, nostalgia and the self-created persona.
Design Culture Fashion 1956–1976
For more than two decades, the Pop movement spanned the worlds of music, art, fashion and design. This book chronicles its development from the Beat Generation of the Fifties through the optimism of the Sixties to its demise amid the angry nihilism of punk. Almost 300 illustrations feature posters, paintings, record sleeves and clothing, including work by Andy Warhol, Mary Quant, David Bailey, Robert Crumb and Zandra Rhodes.
Fashion by Chance 1960–1974
A Visual Autobiography
During the 1960s and 1970s the fashion designer Cleonice Capece played a pivotal role in the success of the 'Made in Italy' mark, creating collections that were sold all over the world in iconic stores including Harrods and Saks New York. This account of her life in the industry is illustrated with fashion shoot photographs, press clippings, sketches, and previously unpublished ephemera from her personal archive.
‘Elegant, outrageous, urbane, eccentric ... provocateurs to aesthetes’: from Thierry Hermés (1801–1878) to Gareth Pugh (b.1981), this volume profiles 75 designers who have made their mark on fashion, with photographic portraits, brief accounts of their collections or couture houses, and pictures of the clothes on the catwalks or in photo shoots.
The Fashion Chronicles
The Style Stories of History's Best Dressed
In this illustrated collection of biographies, the fashion historian and BBC television presenter Amber Butchart investigates the lives and sartorial style of 100 figures across five thousand years of history, from Otzi the Iceman who lived c.3500–3100 BCE to the Vogue model Halima Aden, who was born in 1997. She explores how, across cultures and throughout time, people have used clothing to signify power and status, to adorn and beautify, even to prop up or dismantle regimes.
Style and Perfume from Chanel to Madonna
Illustrated with vintage advertisements and photographs, this examination of olfactory trends from the 1920s to the 1980s considers the key historical events and iconic female figures of each decade in turn and goes on to analyse in detail the scents most associated with it, such as Joy in the 1930s and Opium in the 1970s.
The History of Modern Fashion
Framing changing styles in womenswear, menswear and childrenswear since 1850 as a phenomenon closely intertwined with other cultural forms, such as the performing arts, each chapter of this reference book begins with a concise summary of the political and social changes that took place during the decade under consideration. Illustrated with more than 600 images drawn from museum costume collections and the fashion press, it offers insights into the clothes worn both by icons and ordinary people.
The Mystery of Style
Published to accompany the 2010 exhibition of the same name at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence, this volume investigates Greta Garbo’s life in fashion. Although almost everything she wore was custom-made, her sartorial style was not that of a conventional film star and her wardrobe consisted of comfortable, practical clothes and footwear, many previously unpublished photographs of which feature here. Also included are full-page studio portraits and paparazzi shots plus essays and anecdotes about her life on and off-screen.
Lifting the Lid on Women's Lives
This social history examines the lives of late 19th- and early 20th-century women at home and at work through the changing appearance of the buttons that decorated and fastened their clothes. Lynn Knight explores the role of these accessories as emblems of security, identity and independence and explains how each example represents an era or a vanished way of life, from Victorian mourning attire to Biba’s large statement buttons of the 1970s.
An Illustrated History
Due to the expensive materials and craftsmanship required, shoes have often been regarded as status symbols; the desire of owners to display their wealth resulting in extreme designs such as the absurdly elongated toes of 14th-century 'poulaines'. This well-illustrated history of shoe design analyses the many fads of the 20th century and the latest models of contemporary designers as well as investigating footwear styles dating back as far as 3500 BCE – the oldest shoe ever found.
Fashion in Pictures
Pop stars and actors as well as models and society figures feature in this pictorial survey of fashion since 1900 through photographs taken for the Daily Mirror newspaper. From reportage images of Royal Ascot to studio fashion shots and tabloid-style photographs, the images reflect the changing times as well as changing attire.
A Portrait of Fashion
Six Centuries of Dress at the National Portrait Gallery
Discussing portraits of around 190 people, ranging chronologically from Henry VII to Grayson Perry and Elizabeth II, this study uses the superb collection of the National Portrait Gallery to explore the role of clothing and accessories in portraiture. With an illustrated introductory chapter and detailed commentary on 95 individuals, pairs or groups, the book looks at how clothing and fabrics are used to delineate identity and character, and how the choice of apparel gives insight into a sitter’s personality.
Fashion Illustration in Britain
Society & the Seasons
This well-illustrated book follows the history of fashion and the social calendar in Britain from the late 18th century to the outbreak of the Second World War, when intricately drawn fashion plates were gradually abandoned in favour of photography. Material is taken from the pages of fashion magazines, showing readers how to dress appropriately and stylishly at any time of year and for any occasion, ranging from weddings and funerals to the making of morning calls and sporting activities.
Vogue: The Shoe
Award-winning journalist Harriet Quick describes shoes as objects of ‘fascination, status and desire’ in this lavish volume, presented in an embossed box with a ribbon bookmark. Over 300 images by British Vogue photographers spanning from 1920 to 2015 are organized into five themed chapters including ‘Cinderella’, with bejewelled pumps by Manolo Blahnik, and ‘Fetish & Fantasia’, featuring Jean-Paul Gaultier’s corset-laced, thigh-length boots.
50 Shoes that Changed the World
The Design Museum
Whether mass-produced for everyday wear or hand-crafted as a work of art, shoes hold an important place in fashion and social history. Beginning with the production of the first plimsoll in the 1830s and progressing through designs including Dr Martens boots and flip-flops to architect Zaha Hadid's sculptural Melissa shoe, created in 2008, this illustrated guide outlines the historical context and significance of 50 iconic styles.
A History of Lingerie
From red stockings and satin bustiers to leopard-print thongs, undergarments are often more interesting than the clothes that cover them. With a short introduction, this volume uses colour photographs and contemporary advertisements to illustrate a fascinating range of lingerie. From 19th-century corsets to an early bust supporter and a 1920s bra that offers no support at all, each item is described and catalogued, charting the changing shape of 20th-century fashion.
The Fashion of Film
How Cinema Has Inspired Fashion
With examples from 45 films across seven genres, including crime, musicals, horror and fantasy, this illustrated volume explores Hollywood’s influence on fashion. Demonstrating how costumes can prompt designers’ creativity decades after appearing on screen, it includes looks that have become mainstream – Marlene Dietrich’s androgynous appearance in Morocco in 1930 has been mimicked repeatedly – and those that remain outlandish, such as the robotic bodysuits in Thierry Mugler’s 1995–96 collection, inspired by the 1927 classic Metropolis.
Bikinis, Bell-Bottoms and Little Black Dresses
70 Great Fashion Classics
lip-flops originated in ancient Egypt, sailors wore bell-bottom trousers – a wide leg could be rolled up while swabbing the decks – and the first people to don a parka-style coat were the Canadian Inuit. Taking 70 icons of style, from berets and bikinis to desert boots, this guide charts the history of each item, with photographs revealing how trends have been inspired by work-wear, film, history and the military.
Sex, Sense and Nonsense
Felicity Green on the '60s Fashion Scene
Felicity Green was fashion editor of the Daily Mirror throughout the 1960s and, as well as blazing a trail for women in journalism, revolutionized newspaper coverage of fashion through the introduction of celebrity and glamour. Reproducing some of the best pages from the newspaper, featuring leading models, designers and celebrities of the day, she reflects on the rapidly changing scene of the 1960s, when sexy and playful fashions scandalized, entertained and excited the nation.
Dress of the Year
The Fashion Museum, Bath, takes donation of one new outfit from a contemporary designer each year. The pieces are chosen by fashion writers and intended to reflect the mood of the time – they are often prophetic of future trends. Beginning in 1963 with a Mary Quant dress, and finishing in 2012 with an appliqué evening dress by Christian Dior, this publication includes a photograph and description for each garment in the collection. Incorrectly placed text on page 126 corrected with erratum slip.
Dysfunctional Fashion in Film
Marlene Dietrich’s blood-stained Dior dress in Stage Fright, the white-suited assassin of The Untouchables, Cary Grant’s ‘armour-plated suit’ in North by Northwest... This extensively illustrated volume examines ‘clothing-related moments’ in a vast range of films. Discussing clothes and accessories including overcoats, trench coats and furs, jewellery, shoes, gloves and scarves, white suits (‘the tailoring of evil’) and women in red, the fashion theorist Jonathan Faiers explores the visual and psychical resonance of movie actors’ costume.
The Fashion of Subcultures
Social changes in the early 20th century increasingly encouraged young people to develop tastes that were different from those of their parents, and to spend money on indulging their interests. Usually aligning themselves with new movements in popular music, style tribes emerged with idiosyncratic attitudes and modes of dress. This survey of youth culture identifies over 30 styles from the flappers of the 1920s and the swing kids of the 1930s, to beatniks, hippies, goths and hipsters.
The Mechanical Smile
Modernism and the First Fashion Shows in France and America 1900–1929
In a richly illustrated study of the early fashion shows in France and America between the 1880s and 1929, Caroline Evans brings ‘economic and design history together in a new formation’ as she explores topics including fashion and modernism; the innovations of designers such as Worth, Lucile and Poiret; the body and the fashion mannequins (as models were known); the international garment and fashion trade; and commercial and cultural relations between America and France.
Fashion in Impressionist Paris
The Paris of the Impressionists was the fashion capital of the world. Featuring paintings by Degas, Manet, Monet and Morisot, this book follows in the footsteps of stylish Parisians – at home, in cafés, in the park and on holiday; and it uses vintage photographs and prints to explore the worlds of dressmaking, millinery and the department store, while providing fresh insight into some of the most popular paintings of the 19th century.
Vintage Fashion Knitwear
Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics
Introduced by Kaffe Fassett, this illustrated history of knitwear surveys garments, styles, designers and manufacturers decade-by- decade, from cashmere under-vests in the early 1900s to wartime hand- knitting in the 1940s, and from 1950s twinsets by Pringle to evening dresses from the catwalks of the 2000s. The book covers all forms of knitted textile, whether hand-knits or machine produced jersey, and describes the development of the technology of knitting as well as its social and cultural context.
Great War Fashion
Tales from the History Wardrobe
From the corsets and respectable dresses of Edwardian high society to the relaxed styles that reflected the optimism of the early 1920s, this history traces the changes in women’s clothing during a period of radical social transformation. With examples from historical figures, including suffragettes, nurses and factory workers, it highlights how leisurewear and workwear became more diverse and practical, expressing the new-found freedom and confidence felt by many women after the Great War ended.
The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration
Drawing on his own archive, collected over a 60-year career in fashion design and teaching, Julian Robinson presents a survey of 400 years of fashion illustration as an art form, from Renaissance woodcuts to the Art Deco masterpieces of George Barbier. Reproducing over 300 artworks that ‘wordlessly carry within them so much information, both historical and cultural’, the book is an evocative history of fashion and the art of the fashion illustrator.
Berg Encylopedia of World Dress and Fashion
Volume Three: The United States and Canada
Written for both academic and general readers, the volumes of the Berg Encyclopedia focus on the 19th to early 21st centuries and comprise essays on the full spectrum of issues relating to dress and body modification, with topics ranging from antebellum African American dress to military and civil uniforms. This volume contains more than 70 essays covering First Nations peoples, and European and other cultural groups in the USA and Canada.
Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
Volume Seven: Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific Islands
Written for both academic and general readers, the volumes of the Berg Encyclopedia focus on the 19th to early 21st centuries and comprise essays on the full spectrum of issues relating to dress and body modification, with topics ranging from Maori moko to 'swimwear, surfwear and the bronzed body' in Australia. The 75 essays in this volume cover both First Nation and European dress in Australia and New Zealand, and Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia.
A History of Aristocratic Fashion Icons
Among the royals of Europe there have always been fashionistas: long before Christian Louboutin, Louis XIV created a trend with red-soled shoes, Queen Victoria started the fashion for white wedding dresses, and the elegant style of Grace Kelly has been copied the world over. With over 200 photographs of aristocratic fashion leaders, Royal Style celebrates regal fashion, from the Middle Ages to the newest icons such as the couture-loving Kate Middleton and Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece.
Classic Hollywood Style
Iconic costumes from the golden era of Hollywood are indelibly associated with particular stars and films. With over 150 photographs, and featuring screen stars such as Greta Garbo and Marilyn Monroe, this book explores how cinema's most glamorous costumes were created and how you can get the look today. Focusing on 34 classic films, including Casablanca, Breakfast at Tiffany's and Bonnie and Clyde, the book also tells the stories of the designers, some of whom became stars themselves.
The Ambassador Magazine
Promoting Post-War British Textiles and Fashion
The Ambassador has been described as 'probably the most daring and enterprising trade magazine ever conceived'. Founded to promote British textile and fashion manufacturing, the innovative design, ambitious photo-shoots and adventurous editorial approach set it apart from other magazines. Illustrated with examples of the best covers and layouts, some featuring original artwork by artists such as John Piper and Graham Sutherland, this book tells the story of the Ambassador during its 30-year run from 1942 to 1972.