50 Shoes that Changed the World
The Design Museum
From the production of the world’s first plimsoll (1830s) to the Melissa shoe – designed by architect Zaha Hadid (2008) – via winkle-pickers, desert boots, flip-flops, crocs, heelless boots, ballet pumps with heels and the Electric Light Shoe (which is actually a sculpture), here are 50 shoe designs that have made an impact. Each entry in the guide is photographed and described in the context of its significance on the shoe-design timeline.
The Definitive Sourcebook
In the 1920s, a great diversity of styles, including Art Deco, reflected the new freedoms and optimism of the post-First World War generation of young women. With around 600 contemporary photographs and fashion illustrations, this volume is a valuable resource for fashion historians, designers and fashionistas. It begins with an essay placing the clothes of the 1920s in social and economic context, before covering everything from the iconic silk sack dress and cloche hat to bridal gowns.
A History of Lingerie
From red stockings and satin bustiers to leopard-print thongs, undergarments are often more interesting than the clothes that cover them. With a short introduction, this volume uses colour photographs and contemporary advertisements to illustrate a fascinating range of lingerie. From 19th-century corsets to an early bust supporter and a 1920s bra that offers no support at all, each item is described and catalogued, charting the changing shape of 20th-century fashion.
The Fashion of Film
How Cinema Has Inspired Fashion
Elsa Schiaparelli famously said, ‘What Hollywood designs today, you will be wearing tomorrow,’ and it’s been true since film and fashion were first united at a party in 1911. Richly illustrated with photographs from both worlds, this guide divides 45 movies into seven genres: from crime – featuring film noir and Lauren Bacall; to musicals – including Top Hat and West Side Story; and art house – from directors such as Jean Luc-Godard and Wim Wenders.
Bikinis, Bell-Bottoms and Little Black Dresses
70 Great Fashion Classics
lip-flops originated in Ancient Egypt, sailors wore bell-bottom trousers – a wide leg could be rolled up while swabbing the decks – and the first people to don a parka-style coat were the Canadian Inuit. Taking 70 icons of style – from berets and bikinis to desert boots – this guide charts the history of each item, with photographs revealing how trends have been inspired by work-wear, film, history and the military.
Corsets & Codpieces
A Social History of Outrageous Fashion
With tales both tragic (the 2,500 deaths from crinoline fires in 1864) and amusing (the horse that ate the stuffing from a race-goer’s bustle), Bowman takes readers on a lively journey from Roman times through to 1940s Britain, examining some of the more unusual trends that have been deemed fashionable at one time or another. From the style that was invented to mask disease, to a 1920s hairdo that ended relationships, there’s more to fashion that first meets the eye.
Sex, Sense and Nonsense
Felicity Green on the '60s Fashion Scene
Felicity Green was fashion editor of the Daily Mirror throughout the 1960s and, as well as blazing a trail for women in journalism, revolutionized newspaper coverage of fashion through the introduction of celebrity and glamour. Reproducing some of the best pages from the newspaper, featuring leading models, designers and celebrities of the day, she reflects on the rapidly changing scene of the 1960s, when sexy and playful fashions scandalized, entertained and excited the nation.
Dress of the Year
The Fashion Museum, Bath, takes donation of one new outfit from a contemporary designer each year. The pieces are chosen by fashion writers and intended to reflect the mood of the time – they are often prophetic of future trends. Beginning in 1963 with a Mary Quant dress, and finishing in 2012 with an appliqué evening dress by Christian Dior, this publication includes a photograph and description for each garment in the collection. Incorrectly placed text on page 126 corrected with erratum slip.
Dysfunctional Fashion in Film
Marlene Dietrich’s blood-stained Dior dress in Stage Fright, the white-suited assassin of The Untouchables, Cary Grant’s ‘armour-plated suit’ in North by Northwest... This extensively illustrated volume examines ‘clothing-related moments’ in a vast range of films. Discussing clothes and accessories including overcoats, trench coats and furs, jewellery, shoes, gloves and scarves, white suits (‘the tailoring of evil’) and women in red, the fashion theorist Jonathan Faiers explores the visual and psychical resonance of movie actors’ costume.
The Fashion of Subcultures
Social changes in the early 20th century increasingly encouraged young people to develop tastes that were different from those of their parents, and to spend money on indulging their interests. Usually aligning themselves with new movements in popular music, style tribes emerged with idiosyncratic attitudes and modes of dress. This survey of youth culture identifies over 30 styles from the flappers of the 1920s and the swing kids of the 1930s, to beatniks, hippies, goths and hipsters.
The Mechanical Smile
Modernism and the First Fashion Shows in France and America 1900–1929
In a richly illustrated study of the early fashion shows in France and America between the 1880s and 1929, Caroline Evans brings ‘economic and design history together in a new formation’ as she explores topics including fashion and modernism; the innovations of designers such as Worth, Lucile and Poiret; the body and the fashion mannequins (as models were known); the international garment and fashion trade; and commercial and cultural relations between America and France.
The Complete Historical Sourcebook
Tracing the history of children's fashions from ancient times to the present day, this sourcebook comprises over 1,000 specially drawn examples of the clothes children of various ages wore at different periods, with accompanying text detailing every aspect of their apparel, including accessories. Concluding with a simplified time chart and a bibliography, this is a colourful, authoritative, but also very accessible reference for designers, historians and collectors.
Fashion in Impressionist Paris
The Paris of the Impressionists was the fashion capital of the world. How was this reflected in their work? Featuring paintings by Degas, Manet, Monet and Morisot, this captivating book follows in the footsteps of stylish Parisians – at home, in cafés, in the park and on holiday; and it uses vintage photographs and prints to explore the worlds of dressmaking, millinery and the department store, while providing fresh insight into some of the most popular paintings of the 19th century.
Vintage Fashion Knitwear
Collecting and Wearing Designer Classics
Introduced by Kaffe Fassett, this illustrated history of knitwear surveys garments, styles, designers and manufacturers decade-by- decade, from cashmere under-vests in the early 1900s to wartime hand- knitting in the 1940s, and from 1950s twinsets by Pringle to evening dresses from the catwalks of the 2000s. The book covers all forms of knitted textile, whether hand-knits or machine produced jersey, and describes the development of the technology of knitting as well as its social and cultural context.
Great War Fashion
Tales from the History Wardrobe
This attractively designed social history rummages through the wardrobes of women in the years before the First World War to reveal the lives and fashions of the real women behind the stiff, mono-bosomed ideal of Edwardian high society, and closes with the newly liberated breed who donned trousers and overalls to work in munitions factories, uniforms to tend the wounded and widow's weeds to mourn a generation of men. The wide-ranging text is highly illustrated.
The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration
Drawing on his own archive, collected over a 60-year career in fashion design and teaching, Julian Robinson presents a survey of 400 years of fashion illustration as an art form, from Renaissance woodcuts to the Art Deco masterpieces of George Barbier. Reproducing over 300 artworks that ‘wordlessly carry within them so much information, both historical and cultural’, the book is an evocative history of fashion and the art of the fashion illustrator.
Ancient to Present
Straight or curly, long or short, blonde or dark, hair is one way that women can change their appearance and express their personality. This history charts the changing styles from ancient Egypt to the present. Lavishly illustrated with more than 1,000 illustrations and photographs, it celebrates the elaborate arrangements of the Romans, the bejewelled coiffures of the Renaissance, the stylish bobs of the 1920s and the sophisticated cuts of today's leading stylists such as Anthony Mascolo, who provides the foreword.
Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
Volume Seven: Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific Islands
Written for both academic and general readers, the volumes of the Berg Encyclopedia focus on the 19th to early 21st centuries and comprise essays on the full spectrum of issues relating to dress and body modification, with topics ranging from Maori moko to 'swimwear, surfwear and the bronzed body' in Australia. The 75 essays in this volume cover both First Nation and European dress in Australia and New Zealand, and Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia.
Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
Volume Four: South Asia and Southeast Asia
Written for both academic and general readers, the volumes of the Berg Encyclopedia focus on the 19th to early 21st centuries and comprise essays on the full spectrum of issues relating to dress and body modification, with topics ranging from tooth staining in the Philippines to catwalk fashion in Southeast Asia. In this volume, 63 essays cover 15 countries, including India, Pakistan, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines.
A History of Aristocratic Fashion Icons
Among the royals of Europe there have always been fashionistas: long before Christian Louboutin, Louis XIV created a trend with red-soled shoes, Queen Victoria started the fashion for white wedding dresses, and the elegant style of Grace Kelly has been copied the world over. With over 200 photographs of aristocratic fashion leaders, Royal Style celebrates regal fashion, from the Middle Ages to the newest icons such as the couture-loving Kate Middleton and Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece.
Classic Hollywood Style
Iconic costumes from the golden era of Hollywood are indelibly associated with particular stars and films. With over 150 photographs, and featuring screen stars such as Greta Garbo and Marilyn Monroe, this book explores how cinema's most glamorous costumes were created and how you can get the look today. Focusing on 34 classic films, including Casablanca, Breakfast at Tiffany's and Bonnie and Clyde, the book also tells the stories of the designers, including some who became stars themselves.
An Illustrated History of the Bizarre and Beautiful
From the cumbersome farthingdales favoured by Tudor noblewomen to glitter platform boots in the 1970s and punk cheeks pierced by safety pins, the history of fashion is filled with weird and wonderful trends. With the benefit of hindsight, these fads and fashions can be seen as absurd and sometimes downright dangerous, but gathered together here, they make for a highly entertaining survey of human folly.