Utterly destroyed by fire twice over, in 1842 and 1943, Hamburg has shaken off a reputation as a drab, businesslike port to become a vibrant, cosmopolitan city with a thriving cultural scene. This erudite, informative guidebook charts the city's traumatic history, describes its landmark buildings and varied districts, from the elegant Alster to the notorious Reeperbahn, and explores literary and artistic associations, including Heinrich Heine and the Beatles.